Misleading Skin care
Let the buyer beware! In the multi-billion dollar beauty industry,
things are not always as they appear. Here are my top examples of
dubious marketing and vaporous claims in skin care for the year.
Apple stem cells
This
story is a marketing exec’s dream: Scientists locate an ancient,
heritage apple tree on a remote Swiss hillside and discover that its
stem cells are the fountain of youth. Proponents claim this plant
extract, sold as PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica, can erase wrinkles and
increase the life of human skin cells. The truth is, even if they did
have benefits, apple stem cells could not survive typical retail shelf
life, and stem cells have never been scientifically shown to penetrate
the skin anyway.
Botox in a jar
Some
creams claim they work better than dermatologist-administered
procedures like Botox, lasers and dermal fillers. This is impossible!
Strivectin gets away with it by adding the "?" after "Better than
Botox?" My answer to that question is “No!”
Misleading Statements
ProX
by Olay claims that it’s results were comparable to a prescription
retinoid at 24 weeks. Although this likely means that it moisturized as
well as the prescription product, the long term results on wrinkles
would be more meaningful. The study that led to FDA approval of Renova
(a prescription anti-wrinkle cream) was 52 weeks, not 24 weeks. Any
moisturizer can make skin wrinkles look better temporarily, but it is
long term that counts. So stick to your retinoids, and don’t fall prey
to this claim.
Peptides
The
theory is that topically applying peptides can trick our skin cells
into producing even more collagen. In reality, peptides don’t penetrate
the skin — if they did, other peptides such as insulin would already be
supplied by creams rather than injections. Products like StriVectin may
make the skin feel smooth but they have not been shown to have long-term
clinically-significant benefits.
Home light devices
At
the University of Miami, I worked with several top dermatologists in a
large study on the use of home light devices in the treatment of
wrinkles. The study showed that they just do not work for wrinkles
(though it turned out they help for acne).
Save your money, or opt for professional treatment with Botox, Dysport, or laser treatments.
By Leslie Baumann, M.D.
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